Dinner near Psaa Chas, after the market slows down

Psaa Chas — Old Market to most visitors — runs on a different clock depending on the hour. By day it's stalls, produce, souvenir stands, and enough foot traffic to make a straight line across it a minor negotiation. By evening the rhythm shifts: fewer vendors, more restaurants, the kind of low hum that means people have stopped shopping and started deciding where to eat.

Somaha sits close enough to that shift to feel like part of it. Walk a few minutes off the busiest stretch and the noise drops before the neighborhood does — you're still clearly in the old part of town, just past the point where everything is a transaction.

Inside, the pace keeps slowing. Wine bottles are set out rather than tucked into a folder of a list, so choosing one becomes part of sitting down rather than a formality before the food arrives. Pick something you'd want a second glass of — a bottle for the table works better here than ordering by the glass, since most of what follows is meant to be shared anyway.

It's a reasonable way to end a day spent walking Psaa Chas and the temples beyond it: not a rush back out into the market's evening version of itself, but a table that's in no hurry to turn over. The neighborhood will still be there after. Dinner doesn't have to compete with it.